Tailoring menswear is already a complex process, but how do we fit these garments to bodies that aren’t the “ideal” 1920s man? There are a few tips & tricks which can help reshape a vest to fit a wide variety of bodies. We’ll look at drafting, fitting, and even construction to help adjust the shape of this garment to best suit the wearer and their needs.
Even with a pattern that fits, sewing up a vest can be daunting. There are so many pieces and parts to include and layers you can’t even see! But we’ll break down one of the ways to make a welted pocket, discuss how to fit in a layer of interfacing, and I’ll even show you my favorite fast way to attach fronts and backs together! Although there is an infinite number of ways you can combine elements for vintage or historic vests, many of the techniques are universal. At least, when you understand their purpose and reason, they are!
Why do we use tailors tape along the front edge, but not the armscye? Why do we use interfacing in the welt pockets? Why do we use linen canvas instead of horsehair canvas? Why does my neckline gap? Why do we put a dart in the front?
Supplies
✂️ Wool: https://www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/product-page/herringbone-wool-fabric-100-chocolate-brown
✂️Lining: https://www.etsy.com/listing/202914956/two-tone-herringbone-lining-fabric-sold
✂️Canvas: https://www.etsy.com/listing/241680650/pure-italian-linen-premium-hymo-canvas
✂️Buttons: https://www.etsy.com/listing/239629373/set-of-11-sharp-classic-deep-brown
✂️Pattern Paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KCWGKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
✂️Shears: https://www.whiteley.co.uk/store/craft/wilkinson-exo-silver/
Socials
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/silk_and_buckram/
Tiktok: https://www.tiktok.com/@cloche_call
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nicolerudolph
🖼 Men Standing Near a Staircase: https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47e0-f023-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
📚1920-22 Progressive Tailor: https://www.google.com/books/edition/Progressive_Tailor/Ed82AQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (https://www.epidemicsound.com)
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